Saturday, May 2, 2015

Jaipur

On Sunday, we got a ride to Jaipur, a world gem trade center also known for block printed textiles and stone carving.  Jaipur is in the state of Rajasthan, 230 kilometers west of Agra at the foot of the Aravalli Mountains, a low ridge that extends to Delhi that we were told is the oldest mountain range in the world (I’m guessing maybe one of them) and source of the white marble and sandstone used  to  construct the antiquities.

Jaipur, founded in 1727 is a relatively young city laid out with wide streets and sidewalks with sewers (box culverts) underneath.  Old Jaipur with its walls and seven gates is still intact. As can be imagined, there are traffic jams at the gates. Jaipur is known as the Pink City because most all of the buildings in Old Jaipur are either constructed of red sandstone or painted a similar color.

25% of Jaipurians are employed in the gem trade, Jaipur was one of the first outsourced call centers. Rajasthan is the primary spice growing state in India.

On our way to Jaipur, we stopped at Fatehpur Sikri, a red sandstone fort-palace built by Emperor Akbar (3rd and maybe greatest Mughal emperor).  It was the Mughal capital from 1571 to 1585 until  it was realized there wasn't sufficient water to sustain a capital up on a ridge.  There was,  however, an elaborate system to collect rain water from the whole grounds.

In Jaipur, we were fortunate to stay in a fully-restored heritage haveli (19th century mansion) with the coolest room yet. We had a sitting room, a veranda and 5’ x 5’ mosaic tub (we washed our feet plenty of times, but never tested whether there was water to fill it). The roof-top restaurant was excellent and had belly-dancers. We finally got in a swimming pool in India. Up until India we had been swimming or at least wading almost every day with the exception of the elephant sanctuary.

While in Jaipur, we visited the Amber Fort, the Jal Mahal, Jantar Mantar, a textile and rug making factory and the City Palace. 
The Amber Fort is a fort-palace overlooking Jaipur and constructed of red sandstone and white marble. It was built by Man Singh, one of the first generals of Emperor Akbar (3rd and maybe greatest emporer) starting in 1592. Its most notable feature was the glass palace (aka hall of 1,000 mirrors) where a single lamp is said to be able to illuminate the whole structure. You can ride elephants up to the fort, but the kids chose not to.

Jal Mahal (aka the Water Palace) was built in 1750 in the middle of Man Sagar Lake (dammed in 1599). The structure was never intended as a palace, but rather a duck hunting lodge (quite a fancy duck blind!). 

Jantar Mantar was an observatory (circa 1734) with 14 huge astronomical instruments including the largest (27 meter) sun dial in the world with a precision of 2 seconds. At the time, it was thought that being able to track the celestial bodies would help predict the future.

At the textile and rug factory we learned how fabrics are block printed by hand and tried our own hand at it. The workers were quick and sure, we were not, but it was interesting. We also watched 5 minutes of a 4-month process of hand making a wool rug.
The City Palace is the home of Maharaja of Jaipur going back to 1732 (a Maharaja still lives there). It is also a local history and textile museum.

I’ve been surprised that most all of the antiquities we have seen are from the Mughal (Persian) Empire and none date beyond the 16th century. I had expected to see a more ancient and diverse history.  
Our trip from Delhi to Agra to Jaipur completes a well-traveled tourist route known as the golden triangle. I have to say life got more pleasant the further we got from Delhi. The kids wanted to stay in Jaipur. They liked the hotel in general, but the TV was great (we let them stay up and watch Divergent).  We had originally planned to continue hopping city to city, ending in Mumbai.  We’ve changed plans and flew to Goa on the southwest coast to spend the better part of a week on the beach. We travelled to Goa without Ann-Kristin. We plan to meet back up with her in Mumbai next week.

City Palace  - the color is why Jaipur is called the "Pink City"

Pigs and rubbish in Agra

Twelve people in a tuk tuk

Fatehpur Sikri Fort
 
Fatehpur Sikri Fort

Fatehpur Sikri Fort
 
Fatehpur Sikri Fort

Cow chips collected for fuel. There are piles drying everywhere. They get sealed in what we called poo huts.

An impossible load of wheat chaff.  Many vehicles travel the wrong way on the expressway to avoid  the median.
 
A camel cart on the edge of the highway

The Amber Fort

The Amber Fort main gate
 
The Amber Fort - The windows from which the queens viewed the king and tossed him flowers (things have changed)

A Zoe pose

Elephants ascending to the Amber Fort

The Amber Fort lake  gardens
 
The Amber Fort 

The Amber Fort 

The Amber Fort - Hall of 1,000 Mirrors (aka Glass Palace)

The Amber Fort - Hall of 1,000 Mirrors (aka Glass Palace)

The Amber Fort - Hall of 1,000  Mirrors (aka Glass Palace)

Jal Mahal
 
Jal  Mahal


Jantar Mantar - A smaller sundial (similar, but 1/4-scale of the big one)

Hotel Umaid Bhawan street entrance
 

Hotel Umaid Bhawan reception entrance
 
Hotel Umaid Bhawan structure above reception entrance

Hotel Umaid Bhawan - the backdoor


Hotel Umaid Bhawan - Buddha entrance

 

Hotel Umaid Bhawan - entrance to pool with bar

Our sitting room

Our main room (Jack is testing out the remote)
 
Our veranda is the 3rd floor on the left
 

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